Trampoline Structure

MATERIALS

FRAME

The frame is the most important part of any trampoline as this is what takes all the weight. They should be fully galvanized inside and out to protect them from the weather. Of course, they should be easy to assemble in case you need to take them down, or move them. The thickness of the steel should be between 1.5mm and 2mm. The weakest point on any frame is the welded leg sockets on the top rail. This is not a problem on the heavy frames (i.e.2mm thickness, 48mm diameter).

On lighter narrower frames however, a three way T-Junction leg socket is the strongest and safest option. It's box joint construction gives rigidity, and the additional 2mm of steel added strength. Extra welded steel plates alone offer obstacles which could be a danger and assess your capacity for a very large trampoline.

For a new, large, round, SuperTramp you will be spending near the $US1,000

However, unless you are planning on becoming very serious, a middle range trampoline costing between $500 - $800.00 is ideal, and this price range will usually get you a very good quality trampoline in the large 12 - 14foot size range.

Cheaper brands can get you this size range for $300 - $500. However, compare the bed and padding. It is your choice, but they are often inferior.

PADS

The pad is the section of the trampoline that sits over the frame and springs, protecting the jumper. The pads should be extra wide so that they cover springs and overlap the edge of the jumping bed, this makes sure the jumper will not get caught in the springs. The trampoline pad should fit snugly against the frame, with a deep surround 'skirt' hanging down. Choose closed cell polyethylene foam which is waterproof otherwise you might end up with a water logged pad. At the top end the pad should be encased all round by UV resistant, reinforced PVC as this improves the durability of the pad. A coated pad is superior to a laminated pad.Mid and budget range trampolines generally have pads backed by breather mesh or PE. 30mm of impact resistant foam offers excellent protection from the frame and springs. 20mm is adequate on budget trampolines.

SPRINGS

These should be made from high quality steel wire which is fully galvanized to protect against rust and corrosion. It should have a helical coil type. Having established the quality of the springs, take note of the length and number. On domestic round trampolines springs range in length from 8.5" to 5.5".The heavyweight rectangular trampolines sometimes use a 9.25" spring. The longer and more numerous the springs the greater the upper weight limit will be. Some trampolines have elasticized bands sewn onto the bed. They give an inferior and harder bounce than springs. Another disadvantage is when the elastic perishes you will have to replace the entire bed, as the bands cannot be replaced individually.

THE BED

The jumping bed of a trampoline fall into 2 main categories, either black polymesh or a 2-string bed. Polymesh is generally found on round trampolines. It should be manufactured from Grade A non-abrasive, Permatron polypropylene. This does not provide any additional elasticity, but the tight 'weave' does provide a smooth surface which does not graze children's skin. The 2-string bed is made of nylon, and is found more typically on rectangular trampolines. The wider weave allows good air flow giving a higher bounce, and will dry quicker after rain. However it does have a rougher surface and may cause grazes to elbows and knees i.e. 'trampoline mat burn'. The bed should be attached to the springs by galvanized steel triangular rings or injection moldings (UV stable) The perimeter stitching should be in UV stable thread, and in multiple rows for extra strength.

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